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Posts : 54
Join date : 2011-09-19
Age : 44
Location : Interior BC

PostSubject: HCR32 HICAS REMOVAL & ELIMINATION BAR INSTALL   Tue Sep 20, 2011 11:19 pm

You take full and complete responsibility in performing this job, any damage to your vehicle or any personal injury/death from
doing so will be left up to you. I do not take any legal responsibilty for your actions!

*** Safety ***
Make sure to use proper jackstands, and keep it on a level surface!


Starting from the rear underside of the vehicle...

- Remove the nuts from the outer tierod on each end after removing the cotter pins.
- Have a drainpan ready, break the x2 lines free off the rack, drain.
- Remove the x2 bolts holding the rack to the chassis.

*Elimination bar required* Its up to you which one you decide on, but they all do the same thing.
- Remove the rubber boots off the OEM rack by sliding them off and away from the inner tierods.
- Put the OEM rack in a vise, crack on side of the inner tierods off using an open end wrench.
- Remove the collar found on th eopposite side of the rack.
- You will see a groove for an open end wrench now, crack this inner tie-rod off aswel.

- Inspect the inner tie-rods (clean & repack with grease and/or replace if necassary)
- Simply screw both inner tie-rods onto your HICAS elimination bar.
- Install complete HICAS bar with inner/outer tierods onto chassis with the x2 bolts.
- Install outer tie-rods back onto each side, tighten and install cotter pins.

*At this point you can do 1 of 2 things??

Use the provided hardware that came with your HICAS bar to bypass (loop) the steering lines.
*If you chose this option then, use the hardware and make sure all connections are secure. Then fill the resevoir with steering fluid
and then start the car, and begin moving the steering wheel back & forth to bleed the system. After this, read no more of this DIY!

Do a complete removal of ALL HICAS lines & Solenoids all together.
*If you chose this option, then read on....


Begin removing the lines from the rear underside of the chassis, youll come across the 1st solenoid on the right rear side, which
two pressure lines using banjo bolts join to. The solenoid is held up with i believe x3 10mm bolts to the chassis.

Continue down the chasis, which the lines are simply secured using plastic clips, with the occasional metal bracket holding it all in
place with 10mm bolts into the chassis.

Now, from under the hood looking down onto the right chassis, you can see the main solenoid which has several lines going
to and from it. Start breaking all the lines off of it (banjo bolts, etc), then remove the solenoid itself from the chassis.

Main solenoid removed (below)

Remove the cooling line from up front in front of the radiator.

At the resevoir, remove the line that bends down and is closest to the front of the car. This will be capped off permanently using 3/8"
rubber hose and a bolt big enough to fi in it, clamping them off.

**Power steering pump**

With all the HICAS lines and rack being removed will put more pressure on the pump and eventually blow a seal, so....
take the pump off the engine, and drain it.
Remember to save the banjo bolts and copper seal washers for later.
Put the pump in a vice with the backside facing straight up.
Remove the x4 long bolts from the backplate, and carefully pry it off the pump.

Using needlenose pliers, carefully pull out ALL the small steel fins off the impeller shaft (steel fins are simply a small square piece of metal that act as turbines to create high pressure to the backside of the pump), which removing them will eliminate the high pressure from occuring.

Put the backplate carefully back onto the pump, making sure not to pinch the rubber seal, and tighten the bolts but do not overtighten.

Re-install the pump back into the bracket on the engine, install the belt, tighten the tensioner.

To complete the pump mod, youll need a 16mm (1.5 pitch thread) to cap off the high pressue side of the pump, as we wont be
connecting the hose back on this side now. Remember that youll need to customize the bolt by cutting it to length, and reuse the copper
seal washer before the bolt.


once all lines from under the chassis & under the hood are disconnected, will make it a bit easier to pull the long pressure lines from
under the car. These x2 lines have a bend in them the curve from under the car and up into the engine bay, which can be a pain in
the ass the get loose, as there are other lines in the way such as the clutch line, brake line, etc. It may be needed to have a buddie
help you twist & turn the steering lines carefully as one pulls them out at the rear of the car.

Make sure the powersteering pressure line, electrical connector is installed.

Now, its time to take your car in for a four-wheel alignment!!
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